2008-07-24

it's a raining week


bad weather, rain fall, generator didn’t work…we had to stay in our tents the hole day. the few minutes without snow we walk on the slack line or we boulder around the base camp. reading, writing, discussing about allah and the world. we hope the weather is going better. insch allah…

two flys on the wall


4.10h. we start from base camp with about 60kg in direction adventure. after 7.5h we arrived to the glacier under the wall. we put on our tent and go sleeping early. our project begins on the altitude of the highest point of europe (4800m). we two little fly’s on such a big wall. incredible! the morning after we start to climb. florian fixed two icecrews and curry up our houlbags. it weights much. too much, so icecrews brought out and we crash down a few meters. we opened 8 pitches till we are tired and so we are going to sleep on a small rock edge. immediately i wake up. i was freezing and i staid bad. than i vomited for the rest of the night and i talk nonsense (signs of high sickness). the next morning we continued climbing. a misc of rock and ice and very nice pitches, bud i am too tired to enjoy it. i neither drink or eat the hole day. i feel very weak. we go ahead till the night comes in. we couldn’t find any place to sleep and so we rest the night sitting on a small piece of rock. we tried to call for another time the base camp, because till now the radio didn’t work. finally it works and we could speak with simone moro. he says that our family and friends are worried for us and there was an accident on the nanga parbat. karl unterkircher died, he was a friend of us. we can't believe it and we are totally destroyed. we lost all the power to continue. it was the longest night in our live, because we couldn’t sleep a minute. in the morning snowfall and bad weather. we had to return immediately rappelling down. after 6h we are on the ground. we staggered down and slept for half an hour. we know that we are too long on high altitude and that we must return to base camp very fast. in 5h we go down on 4107m. we hear strange voices and saw a person with a bottle of coke. a ghost? no, simone. we are safe!