vertical destination

climbing on high altitude is for sure much more than climbing. is at the same time adventure, exploration, finding out your limits, learning to wait and having a lot of luck. we understood that our vision to climb this big wall would be very difficult to realize. we two brothers, in alpinstyle, without fixropes and highaltitude porters... but we know that this is exactly the climbing diszipline that we prefer and that we want to do in the future. for us the hardest challenge is to bring our climbing level on walls such as this one: high, long, steep, difficult, unclimbed and maybe impossible in our style. for this time the mountain was the winner but the story will continue. we will be back and “rock” this wall. now our biggest passion is our destination.

first traverse of ya chhish peak (5130m)

before leaving the karakorum range we decided to climb ya chhish peak (5130m). this time the weather had been fantastic. arrived to the summit we decided to try a new traverse. it would be the first one of this mountain. and this time we had been lucky and successful. now we are very happy and so we will start our travel back home compleately satisfied…

snowfall in the hell

we had been another time on our big wall. this time we changed our climbing tactic.
no houlbag, no sleeping bag, no cooking stove, no food… but... no success. the rock wall was transformed in a hell of ice and snow. we had to return at once. the snowfall was so heavy, that the tent poles were broken. we past the night reinforcing the tent; and all the time avalanches sound around us. it falls a half a meter fresh snow. we couldn’t find our tracks coming back to base camp. so crossing the glacier had been not an easy game. now we stay in base camp and our time is running out…

it's a raining week

bad weather, rain fall, generator didn’t work…we had to stay in our tents the hole day. the few minutes without snow we walk on the slack line or we boulder around the base camp. reading, writing, discussing about allah and the world. we hope the weather is going better. insch allah…

two flys on the wall

4.10h. we start from base camp with about 60kg in direction adventure. after 7.5h we arrived to the glacier under the wall. we put on our tent and go sleeping early. our project begins on the altitude of the highest point of europe (4800m). we two little fly’s on such a big wall. incredible! the morning after we start to climb. florian fixed two icecrews and curry up our houlbags. it weights much. too much, so icecrews brought out and we crash down a few meters. we opened 8 pitches till we are tired and so we are going to sleep on a small rock edge. immediately i wake up. i was freezing and i staid bad. than i vomited for the rest of the night and i talk nonsense (signs of high sickness). the next morning we continued climbing. a misc of rock and ice and very nice pitches, bud i am too tired to enjoy it. i neither drink or eat the hole day. i feel very weak. we go ahead till the night comes in. we couldn’t find any place to sleep and so we rest the night sitting on a small piece of rock. we tried to call for another time the base camp, because till now the radio didn’t work. finally it works and we could speak with simone moro. he says that our family and friends are worried for us and there was an accident on the nanga parbat. karl unterkircher died, he was a friend of us. we can't believe it and we are totally destroyed. we lost all the power to continue. it was the longest night in our live, because we couldn’t sleep a minute. in the morning snowfall and bad weather. we had to return immediately rappelling down. after 6h we are on the ground. we staggered down and slept for half an hour. we know that we are too long on high altitude and that we must return to base camp very fast. in 5h we go down on 4107m. we hear strange voices and saw a person with a bottle of coke. a ghost? no, simone. we are safe!

we walked a lonely road

yesterday we walked eleven hours with a houlbag of about 25 kg. we brought our staff under the wall. it was not easy to find a safe way trough the glacier, because there are many crevasses. for two times i vanished till my belly in a snowhole. it's crazy being surroundet by this giants mountains. we feel like ants. today the weather is changeable and we had to stay in our tends...

trekking to the base camp (4107m)

we trekked for about three days. few porters where very tired and so we had to take a lot of rests. we have never seen so many unclimbed mountains before. it's amazing! the base camp looks like paradise and the wall that we expected to climb is bigger and harder that we tought. we will see... but now we will have a rest day...

karakorum highway

three days travelling on the karakorum highway to the northern areas. beautiful landscape, nice people and a very fast driver. arrived to the village named "bar" the local people prepared a welcome day for us…

high voltage in islamabad

we arrived to islamabad. the cargo is not jet here. we took our briefing with the secretary of alpine club and he renindet us that our valley is on the black list. that means, its near afghanistan and dangerous at the moment. yesterday there was a bomb blast in the capital islamabad. now we wont to leave the city as fast as possible…

ready for the flight

portalege, rope 20m, rope 8.1 grivel 60m, rope 8.1 salewa 60m, tend salewa-base, tend salewa-altitude, sticks grivel, sticks salewa light, houlbag bd big, snowshowel alu, snowprobe, big black bag, 2 downpants, 2 downjackets, 2 cushions, 2 pair gloves icefall, 2 pair gloves summit, 2 pair drytool-gloves, 2 pair gloves big, 2 pair snowprotectors salewa, houlbag mini, 15 hms, 4 jumars, 1 hammer salewa, 1 hammer grivel light, 70 pytons, nutcleaner, candela grivel, bag tnf little jellow, 8 icescrews grivel helix, crampons grivel rambo 4, crampons grivel g14, ropeman, t-block, screwspanner17, iceaxes grivel airtech evo, iceaxes grivel matrix light, 1 set nuts, 8 pairs socks, 5 tapes, 5mm 60m, 8mm 60m, 2 bags grivel, cookingset, cooker, knive, forg, spoon, foot for 40 days, bag salewa black big, 2 salewa sleepingbags1200, 2 salewa sleepingbags250, 2x30m rope 6mm, 2 biwackbags salewa, 2 pair shoes scarpa “gran jorasses”, slacks, trousers gore tex, many dollars, passport, visa, tickets, creditcard, postcards, underware, lighter, pills, pentasa, bioflorin, maxicalz, cortison, immurek, sandales, 2 pair trekkingschoes, 2 thermobottles, 2 bottles, 4 lamps, batteries, roll, trekkingrucksack, 2 caps, pills water, waterpump, 3 cameras, batteries, friends, magnesia, chalkbag, 2 harnesses, 2 helmets, 20 quickdrows, first aid set, carabiners, climbingshoes, snowglasses, glasses, suncreme, triller, iso, toilettpaper, stormcap, blasterplaster, toothbrush, toothpast, stair, chaisi lane, 2 clifs, slings, softshell, hardshell, pullover, t-shits, towel, a lot of luck...

two brothers - one peak

we are planning to climb the nearly 6000m high darvo chook-south in batura-pakistan which is still virgin. the aim of the expedition is a first ascent on the southface. only we two - my brother and me.
on 5th of july our airplane starts from milano to islamabad. after a briefing with the locals we will travel by jeep to the northern karakorum. then we will walk to the basecamp at an altitude of about 4000m. from this point on the area is mostly unexplored and we will have to rely on our instinct...